Gardeners in the South have a unique dilemma when it comes to planting tulips, daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs. Unlike the gardens of our Northern friends, most of the popular spring flowers will not 'naturalize' - or return year after year - for us, as they require a longer chilling time in the ground. So, we've compiled a list of tried-and-true types which have proven to do well in Southern gardens and will come back for many years.

Of course, North Texas gardeners are free to plant any type of bulb in their landscape but should be prepared for the more delicate types to perform as annuals.

• Daffodils: Avalanche, Butter and Eggs, Campernelle, Double Campernelle, Carlton, Dick Wellband, Early Pearl, Erlicheer, Fortune, Geranium, Grand Primo, Ice Follies, Mt. Hood, N. jonquilla Early Louisiana, Mrs. Backhouse, Orange Phoenix, Queen of the North (despite its name!), St. Keverne, Tenby, Texas Star, Thalia, Sweetness, Trevithian and Van Sion.
• Crocus: Blue Pearl, Snow Bunting, Cream Beauty and Flavius Yellow
• Tulips: Most 'Species' types, including clusiana, bakeri and humilis
• Grape Hyacinths/Muscari
• Ranunculus
• Anemones
• Galanthus ("Snowdrops")
• Leucojum aestivum ("Snowflake")
• Alliums: A few drumstick-types, including sphaerocephalum and schubertii
• Iris (Bulb-type): Dutch

Q. When should spring-flowering bulbs be planted?
A. In the fall, from mid-September to mid-December. The natural chilling the bulb receives provides the stimulus for the flower buds to develop properly. It also allows for root development.Some bulbs will require pre-chilling before planting - see below for more information.

Q. How can you judge the quality of bulbs?
A. In general, they should be heavy and solid. A soft bulb may indicate internal rot. They should be free of bruises and cuts - these are ready sites for disease and insect invasion. Inspect the bulbs closely for signs of disease or insects. You will avoid many problems by planting clean, high-quality bulbs.

Q. How much light do spring-flowering bulbs require?
A. Most spring-flowering bulbs do best in full sun or filtered light. Inadequate light tends to reduce the size or number of flowers and can even prevent flowering in some cases. Most spring-flowering bulbs lose their foliage by late spring or early summer, and therefore can often be grown successfully under deciduous trees. (By the time the trees leaf out, foliage on the bulbs is declining.) Light shade and cooler temperatures can prolong the length of time the plant is in flower and reduce fading.

Q. What about soil quality?
A. Most authorities recommend sandy loams for bulbs, but you also can find many examples of bulbs thriving in everything from pure sand to clay. The key to success as far as the soil is concerned is drainage. Most bulbs are highly intolerant of poor drainage. In the landscape, drainage can be improved by adding various soil amendments, installing drain lines or growing in raised beds.

Q. How deep should bulbs be planted?
A. It depends on the size of the bulb and the soil type (heavy or light). As a general rule, planting depth (from top of bulb to soil surface) should be 2 to 3 times the greatest diameter for bulbs 2 inches or more in diameter, and 3 to 4 times the greatest diameter of smaller bulbs. Bulbs planted too deep may not be able to push through the soil. Planted too shallow, they are more susceptible to moisture stress.

Q. What is the proper spacing for spring-flowering bulbs?
A. It will vary according to the size and vigor of the bulb as well as the desired landscape effect. Tiny bulbs like grape hyacinth are planted about 3 inches apart. Large bulbs like daffodil might be planted 6 to 12 inches apart. The closer together that bulbs are planted, the sooner they will need to be dug and divided. On the other hand, if spaced too far apart, the landscape effect is spotty and less attractive.

Q. When do spring-flowering bulbs bloom?
A. "Spring" is not a precise time, and may actually extend over a period of weeks and varying somewhat from year to year and location to location. Early-, mid- and late-spring are sometimes used to more closely define the bloom time. Depending on the species, variety and micro-climate, blooming may occur from January to May. (Bulbs flowering January and February are sometimes referred to as winter-flowering. This term is also used to describe tender bulbs which flower INDOORS in winter.) Bulbs with southern exposures usually bloom earlier than those with northern exposure.

Q. When can the foliage of spring-flowering bulbs be removed?
A. Allow the foliage to remain until it withers and dies naturally (late spring to early summer). The longer the foliage remains, the longer the plant can photosynthesize and build up its food reserves for subsequent re-flowering. Premature removal can severely weaken a bulb, resulting in poor flowering and/or death. Unfortunately, the foliage of most spring-flowering bulbs becomes unsightly long before it completely dies, and many gardeners cut or mow it off. If you must remove the foliage, allow a minimum of 6 weeks after flowering before removal. Annuals and some groundcovers can be inter-planted with bulbs to hide deteriorating bulb foliage.

Q. When Is the best time to dig and divide spring-flowering bulbs?
A. They can be dug and divided anytime when dormant (after the foliage dies and before new root growth begins in the fall). It is probably best to dig and divide just as the foliage matures and easily detaches from the bulbs. At that time, you know exactly where the bulbs are. Later, when the foliage is gone, you may not remember. The bulbs should be immediately re-planted or stored in a cool dry place until fall.

Many spring-flowering bulbs -- tulips, hyacinths and crocus, especially -- require a chilling period for optimum blooming. As a general rule, you should keep them at 40-50°F for 6-8 weeks. The vegetable drawer of the refrigerator works well. Place the bulbs in a loosely-closed paper sack or vented box. However, keep ripening fruit away from chilling bulbs; the fruit emits ethylene gas which can hamper bulb flowering later on. Some local nurseries will store and pre-chill the bulbs you purchase from them until planting time.

Iris and daffodil bulbs do not require chilling.

Bulbs that are good for indoor forcing include Crocus, Narcissus, Daffodils and hyacinths (Dutch and grape). However, avoid forcing tulips or Dutch hyacinths that you have not pre-cooled for 60 days.

Pot the bulbs as soon as they become available. Prepare the soil by mixing equal parts of soil, peat and sand. Place a 1-inch layer of gravel in the bottom of the pot. Firm the soil around the bulbs, leaving the tips of large bulbs showing above the surface. Barely cover small bulbs and space them about 1/2-inch apart in the pot. The newly potted bulbs should be stored at a temperature of 40 to 50 degrees F. Success with forcing bulbs depends upon their developing roots during the cold storage period. Keep the soil moist but not saturated . The vegetable drawer in the refrigerator provides excellent conditions.

After the cold storage treatment, place the bulbs in a cool, semi-lighted location. Gradually move to sunnier locations for good growth and color. Do not allow the bulbs to dry out at anytime during the forcing period.

• Lasagna Bulb-Planting Technique